The Race at Sunrise...or not...

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Every morning in Africa,

a gazelle wakes up.

It knows that it must run

faster than the fastest lion.

Or it will be killed.

Every morning a lion wakes up.

It knows that it must out run the slowest gazelle.

Or it will starve to death.
It doesn't matter whether you are a lion

or a gazelle; when the sun comes up

You had better be running

That is an African Parable. 

According to the above, Dar es Salaam is very un-African, because around here, people are rarely in a hurry and even more rarely running...except for the Masai...but that is not the point as they don't operate the business centers.  The culture around here is very much of the procrastination kind - "hamna shida, kesho" (no worries, tomorrow)!

But I can't really blame them  - if I lived in a place where I didn't need shelter from the cold, I could do a little fishing everyday and when I walk home a paw-paw falls on my head (tada, salad!) - who would want to run anywhere?  Let's rather...DANCE!  Yeah!

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Andizi

"Street Level" Exhibition by Sarah Markes

Graphic designer and illustrator Sarah Markes is holding an exhibition of her beautiful graphic prints at the Alliance Francaise this month. Many of us are familiar with the vibrant street and people scenes, and we now have the opportunity to view and buy the original drawings and paintings (I've been saving!)

I have collected many of the authentically 'Dar' sketches that are now at home in South Africa waiting to be framed, while Andizi's colourful collection is displayed around her room. When my dearest Pop came to visit from SA a month ago I bought her a heap as a keepsakes for everything that she had seen and experienced in this city, as the prints make great gifts (especially for inspiring fellow designers)!

The full range of the prints are also available at the green room, Slipway.

See you all at the exhibition!

Frangipani

BFF

Meet Rocco.  Rocco belongs to my friend Paris.  Yes, as in Paris Hilton.  No, that is not her real name, but she looks like her, dresses like her and has a dog like her and I absolutely LOVE the way she has embraced this persona and does not give a damn what anybody thinks!  And seriously, how cool is it for us in Dar to have our own Paris?!
Anyways, back to the picture in discussion.  Rocco came for a play date with Konyagi.  It was the funniest thing to watch! I could see the confusion on Konyagi's face - "is it a cat, is it a rat?!"  He literally did not know what to do with Konyagi, because clearly in his mind, this could NOT be a dog?!  If there is any other dog around, Konyagi arches like a bow and hisses like a giant chameleon.  Faced with Rocco he was like - "should I hunt it, play with it or fight it?!"
In the end he decided to play with it and they had the most fun!  So there Noenie (aka Konyagi), now you know, best friends can come in all shapes and sizes...they might not always look like what you expect, but be prepared to be pleasantly surprised by animals, people and life in general.

Andizi

Flight or Fight

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"I pack my trunk, embrace my friends, embark on the sea, and at last wake up in Naples and there beside me is the Stern Fact, the Sad Self, unrelenting, identical, that I fled from.|"

Ralph Waldo Emerson

"I pack my trunk, embrace my friends, embark on the sea, and at last wake up in Naples Dar es Salaam and there beside me is the Stern Fact, the Sad Self, unrelenting, identical, that I fled from."

Andizi

Drama Salaam

For such a large city, Dar es Salaam can become quite small with the disorderly kings and queens that feud for the proverbial crown. And sometimes it is even the jesters that want some face time. A mostly theatrical performance in Pandora's (little) Box, Drama Salaam will often bemuse even the most reticent inhabitants...

To wagging tongues.

Frangipani  x

Beautiful

I recently saw the preview for "Eat, Pray, Love" and something that was said resonated with me in a big way.  I read the book two years ago and it was a fun read, but at that stage nothing particularly life changing. I decided to give it another bash.
Last night I came across this sentence "You where given life, it is your duty (and also your entitlement as a human being) to find something beautiful within life, no matter how slight."
When I read that I thought I would write about all the beautiful things in my life, the things that I have to be grateful for, the things I so often forget about and the things that are so amazingly beautiful they fill me with wonder every day.  But when I started the beautiful-things-in-my-life list I realised - it is a looooong one...which in itself was a good food for thought exercise!

So I have decided to choose only one beautiful thing to share that I have recently discovered...my bedroom's balcony...it has been under my nose for nearly 9 months and only now I am starting to enjoy my new found haven of tranquility...well, as much tranquility as you can get on any given day in an African city!
But I have taken to spending dreamy Dar evenings on my balcony with a glass of wine, a candle and a kanga wrapped around my shoulders.  More than once I have fallen asleep there cuddling Konyagi very much against his will.
In the early mornings I exchange my glass of wine for an essential cup of coffee and listen to the sounds of Dar rising.
And it is here that I am doing a lot of thinking..seeking...MUSING...about life, about people, about dreams, the future and the past, about love, about expectations, ambitions, desires.  In Afrikaans there is a quirky saying that goes "die liefde en die leed" - roughly translated as "the good/love and the bad/pain"...so I suppose on my balcony I am contemplating "die liefde en die leed"...and this little tiled space of stars and sunshine is what I have found to be beautiful in my life right now.

Andizi

Shoe Shopping

A friend of mine recently came to visit and I took her shoe shopping...Dar es Salaam style!  Forget Sandton Noc, we've got Mwenge!

Andizi

Steel Magnolias

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We have a theater in Dar rather fittingly called The Little Theater.  Every once in a while when we feel really culture starved, the local amateur actors put on a small production and we all meander down there for support.  It usually is a real laugh as there is bound to be someone you know in the cast and actors and audience alike take part in the fun!  A particularly hilarious scene was in Mamma Mia, when a good looking older lady played the part of sexy Tania and got fondled by a "beach boy", who in real life happen to be a surfer looking lad in grade 9 at the International School..."Does your Mamma know" indeed?!
 
So Wednesday night Frangipani and me headed down to The Little Theater for Steel Magnolias.  Remember the movie with Dolly Parton, Julia Roberts and Sally Field that made us laugh aloud and cry uncontrollably?
It is the story of several small town women who's lives revolve around meeting in Truvy's, the local beauty parlour.  It's all about friendship and love and loss. The plot is rather predictable, but even so, I could not help leaving the theater a little teary eyed, loving, appreciating and missing my girlfriends more.

And yesterday life happened and two of my dearest friends received bad news that caused broken hearts and many tears.  Aan my vriendinne...sometimes my words are just too insignificant and all I can do is give you a big hug, make you some cottage pie or sit with you under the stars and sip wine...not saying much...just sitting...
And if I am too far away, there are always The Girls, rallying around, laughing, talking, crying, drinking...being me, there for you...I love you all and miss you terribly!

Andizi

The times they are a changin'...

As you would have noticed, there has been quite a bit of change on the blog.
Firstly (and very very sadly) Hibiscus and Maisha have both left dusty Dar and settled in the civilized ways of Cape Town and Johannesburg respectively.
It was hard saying goodbye to two dear friends and we miss them terrible, but as Maisha herself wrote: "I asked a good friend, who was born here how she handles people coming in and out of her life. She had quite an interesting outlook on it all; she finds it refreshing to have this constant ebb and flow of new and old faces. I tend to agree with her, I think we open ourselves up more to meet new and different people we would usually not have spent time with, and in doing so you discover things about yourself."
And I am happy to announce that they are both very much alive and kicking in their new abodes.  While Maisha continues to delight us with reflections on life in Johannesburg vs Dar es Salaam, Hibiscus has decided to focus a bit more on her culinary career.  Go check out this immensely talented girls' stuff at http://www.julesmercer.com/  But do look out for her monthly recipes on this blog - she just can't leave us completely...yet!

As for myself and Frangipani, there has been hook-ups and break-ups, disasters and delight!  After some uncertain months we are back in Dar for at least another year and very much excited for what lies ahead.  We have settled into a nice routine with the boys next door (we provide food, they provide vino) and with the addition of a couple of pieces of furniture (and off course Konyagi!) we are comfortable in Dar indeed!

Through all the chaos, the teary fair wells, the heartache and the drama, Desert Rose has been our constant reminder that sanity does still exist and eventually prevails!  Always ready to feed us with a lasagna in the oven or console us over a glass/bottle of wine, she has an ability to make things better or at least seem better than they appear!  Is that another of the wise gifts that come with motherhood?  Speaking of which...if all else fails, there is always Moo to give you a hug or tell you a story about a "hipopipopotimus" that is bound to make the world a better place!

Andizi

The heart of the Traveller

“One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.” – Henry Miller

This saying has never rung so true as when I went home to South Africa for a month recently, taking a little time out of Dar for some work and play. This time, something was a little different from my previous experience of returning home. It smelt different, it looked different and it sure felt different!

The soccer world cup was just beginning and we were hosting thousands of people from around the world…The streets were bustling, everywhere around me people were speaking in different languages, I could smell the distinctive Grahamstown Festival air, and there was an electricity and pride amongst all South Africans that was so tangible, it was something to behold.

My trip on the Gautrain was one of my highlights. I felt like a kid about to go on a rollercoaster; taking pictures, minding the gap and entering nervously. It’s everything that it was meant to be - convenient, safe, clean and very comfortable but mostly its just plain AWESOME! A great public transport system is coming into place, it looks hot and everyone who was and is still involved (the assistants at the ticket points are very helpful, as certain people in their excitement don’t yet know how to charge cards uhm) is doing a fantastic job!

Something a little less manifest however, was how I was slowly becoming more aware of the way I understood what ‘home’ to lacked and possessed. I began to see what I had taken for granted before… simple things like being able to drink water out of the tap (I phoned Maisha in a flat panic because I was so thirsty and there was no water in her fridge), a constant supply of electricity (although I would not give up late-night dark chocolate indulgence on our  under the stars on our breezy rooftop), a media that informs and educates, more than adequate health care facilities and access to medicine…These are some of my daily preoccupations here, which at home I accept as the norm. I feel like I had a little more time to think…

…And traveling most certainly opens up one’s heart… Friendships and relationships I have found are much less stratified according to age, occupation or status etc.  It is a gift to share ones experiences with such a dynamic group of people, who constantly challenge me and who are a constant source of delight.  One is surprised, disillusioned, delighted and educated about people, religions, cultures, and mostly yourself.  And I think that’s what’s changed since I last went home, a gift that I have received from my travels and my stay in Dar: self-reflection. And with that comes an awareness of ones’ environment.

It was really amazing to be home, to spend time with my mom and to see the country that I hold so dear, in a slightly different way... And its just as awesome to be back in the heat!!

Frangipani

I am Woman

SEX AND THE CITY 2

Gotta love it – these woman is brilliant! Dar es Salaam-a-la-Sex-and-the-City-2

We got invited to the “Premiere” – excuse me – of Sex and the City 2 in Dar es Salaam! A couple of us girls, put our heels on and off we went to the Cinema.

Firstly – to get to the Cinema it took us about an hour as they opening started at 18:00. Or so the ticket said…. True Tanzania style – we got there at 18: 39 and they were still setting up! Hie hie!

But it looked great – pink carpet, pink drapes, pink cupcakes and best of all – PINK BUBBLES! JC le Roux was launching their new Le Fleurette Rose Sparkling Wine and they did a great job at it! No better idea than to bring bubbles to such a great movie!

It was honestly hysterical – and Samantha was the cherry on the top!

She was excellent! 

                 

I have to mention the clothes, oh the clothes, oh the beautiful, interesting, funky, weird, creations that came on screen! Goodness, whoever has got that job – they are great and shocking at the same time! I guess that is what they want – the shock  and wow factor all in one!

Ladies – round up the troops, dress up and go and see the movie – it’s fun!!!!

~desert rose~

Barbeque/"Braaivleis" Dar es Salaam Style

Our favourite local restaurant for mishkaki - which is like a meat kebab

Watching the soccer - Obviously!  This was the game that sent England "Out of Africa"

Handogg washing his hands - this gets done before every meal as a knife and fork does not feature in this type of establishment.

Mmmmmmmm...nice pink tomato sauce!  But we go back for more every time!

Washing hands after the meal.

The uninvited guest that accompanies most meals in Dar es Salaam - this mozzie met a sudden end at the hands of Handogg - no pun intended!

It does not beat a good old "skaap tjoppie" (lamb tjop) and "braai broodjie" (toasted sandwich) on the South-African braai , but it sure is damn tasty!

Andizi

New Beginnings

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In the last week I have turned 30,hurriedly packed my bags for Dar, got home to bubbles and balloons, unpacked my bags in Dar, started work, packed my bags again for Arusha...and this is where I still find myself, in the shadow of Mount Meru.

To all my friends and family back home - thank you, thank you, thank you for taking care of me while I was in SA.  I never expected to find myself broke and semi-hopeless at the glorious age of 30...but there I was...the way you opened your doors to me, spoiled me with treats, fed me good food and wine, took me dancing and always the never ending support meant the world to me!

To all my friends in Dar who kept my house mould free, fed my flatmate (who possibly would have staved in my absence), supported me from afar and welcomed me back in such a wonderful way...wow...i can not wait for another year of African adventures with you all!

This year has been tough to say the least, but I feel older, wiser and more responsible all ready! I am truly blessed for each one of you in my life!  And once again...To new beginnings!

Andizi

Yoga - For the Conscious Living

Wow, what a way to start a Saturday morning in Dar es Salaam.

I found myself (at a decent time!) this morning amongst a sea of deep purple, bright blue and happy gray yoga mats, facing the Indian Ocean and focussing on my breathing with so much content.

I started practicing yoga early January this year at the Colosseum Gym in Haille Selassie Road for the only reason - I was curious what the fuss was about.

Vinyasa Flow, Hatha, Ashtanga, power yoga - it was all just a mix of words!

I couldn't have asked for a more inspiring teacher - Taraneh - she completely got me into yoga for the rest of my life.
She was incredible and I'll always say thank you to her. She has sadly left us mid-May to go back to Canada and I had to find another person/teacher to fill her spot.
Luckily another great teacher - Helen - decided to teach Tuesday mornings. at the gym and I was happy again..... (08:30 - 09:45/10:00)

Heard via the grape vine that I had to try Satya's classes at the Thai Village ( Tuesday and Thursday mornings from 08:45 - 10:15)
First day there had me yearning for more - it was intense and I felt wonderful afterwards.

I also decided to attend his classes on Saturday Mornings ( starts at 10:00) at the Fitness Centre (you turn right off Kimweri Rd after the fallen down Baobab on a dirt road - Centre is at the end of the road) and I just thought that I had to let all the Dar es Salaamites know about this.

Come and stretch, position your body in poses unknown to yourself, test your balance and breath in fresh air......

~desert rose~

Small Town in a Big City

I have always regarded myself as a Big City Girl, the shopping, the restaurants and of course the anonymity of thousands of people independently going about their daily lives.

Today marks two weeks back in the Big City  and I find myself missing the Small Town. Things that have previously irritated me like being hooted at by every car while on your morning run or meeting everyone you know from the coffee shop to the supermarket on a Saturday morning, I now recognize as a sign of a community that cares (or maybe one that doesn't have a lot to do...)

Although I enjoy the washed and packed lettuce and being able to have a wonderful cappuccino any time I wish, I still miss the friendly chat with the local vegetable guy or the wave of a friend as you pass them on the road and of course the balmy evenings spent at a neighbours house with glasses of red wine with ice and insightful discussions with worldly wise women.

I think for now I will give the Big City a chance but maybe in the future will find myself searching for the perfect Small Town where my green grocer will sell me the freshes produce and the coffee shop owner will know my name.

maisha

Colourful khangas and Soulful Saris...

I love bright colours, this is apparent in the outrages colours I can't resist at the beauty salon. Every time I go I promise myself to make a responsible choice, naturally nude or obviously aubergine. But who can resist Royal Flush Blush or Miami Beet so I find myself walking out with a fabulous Tipsy Tartpedicure and manicure that will probably not match 80% of my wardrobe.

Thus my fascination with the beautiful khangas and kitenges of Tanzania makes sense. The bright colours and beautiful designs attract me like the Miami Beet at the salon I just can't resist.

Each country or culture has its own traditional fabrics and designs but its only recently in South Africa that the sweswe pattern has been made fashionable again. This is not the case in Tanzania. The lack of any clothing manufacturing industry and the ridiculous import duties on clothes coupled with a burgeoning cotton trade have kept the khanga and kitenge fabric alive and well. Anywhere you go in Tanzania you can see woman wrapped in colourful khangas or dressed in beautifully taylored kitenge dresses.

Buying these fabrics in town is an experience, town is an experience! Uhuru street is a bustling hub of wholesalers and individuals all vying for your attention 'Dada, dada angalia!'(Sister, sister come see). Here you can smell Africa in the cooking fires and the rotting garbage, feel it in the dust between your toes and the sweat dripping down you back and see it in the beautiful patterns on these fabrics. I always go with a promise to myself not to buy more than I can carry but at tsh 5000(R27) a khanga and tsh 6000(R32) n kitenge who can resist.

Tanzania is a melting pot of different cultures; Chagga, Massai, Indian, Arab, Europeans and Chinese. It is no surprise to find a vintage sari shop hidden away in a dilapidated building where shelves and shelves of carefully hand stitched and beaded vintage saris in silks, organza and cotton are stored. A short friendly greying Indian man urges you to touch the 100% organza with hand beaded patterns and feel the vintage pure silks on your skin.

So Saturday I walked away with arms full of treasures to be turned into tablecloths, napkins, curtains and cushions to remind me of this beautifully diverse country I called home for three years.

maisha

A telephone conversation in Tanzania.

The telephone conversation went like this:

(Note: this is a real-life emergency that happened yesterday)

ME: Hello, please could you put me through to the Clinic, I have an emergency and would like to see the gynecologist as soon as possible. 

OPERATOR 1: Ok please hold.....

.......

OPERATOR 2: GHALLO?

ME: Hello Ma'am (my mother taught me well) please can we come and see the RUSSIAN gynecologist right now - I have a friend that's got an emergency.

OPERATOR 2: ..... GHALLLO?!

ME: HELLO MA'AM, DO YOU HAVE SPACE FOR ME NOW?

OPERATOR 2: OH, ghallo, yes, you can come.

ME: Is the RUSSIAN gynecologist there?

OPERATOR 2: Yes, you can come, what is the patient's name?

ME: Mary. Please confirm if the RUSSIAN gyne is there - I can't remember her surname, I think it starts with a S.

OPERATOR 2: Yes, you can come.

ME: Thank you, we'll come now to see the RUSSIAN gyne. Goodbye.

OPERATOR 2: OH, she's not here, she's on leave.....

ME: ...........

Don't you just love it. If it wasn't my first day back after two weeks in a semi-1st-world-country, I would reacted very, very badly indeed.

I am pleased to report though that my friend, Mary, is ok and nothing is wrong with her or her baby. Just mama's low blood pressure. 

Guess who told us this: the Philippino gynecologist........

~desert rose~

The raaaaaaain in Spaaaaaain

Dar has transformed into a water world as torrents of rainwater turn streets into rivers, parking lots into lakes. Helloooooo rains! It is quite lovely (when enjoyed from the comfort of your home under a blanket with a good book), but a little inconvenient when it comes to the fashion department.  My pants are drenched with that slow, wet, upward creep and negotiating puddles in my slip slops leaves them ruined and my feet muddy and cold.

And so it is that today I will go in search of a pair of gumboots! This prospect has me really excited; because it’s the closest I’m going to get to winter fashion (which I love). Boots paired with stockings, boots paired with coats, boots paired with anything really! And now, gumboots paired with shorts and floral frocks.

SO I’m off the local hardware stores along Kimweri River, or maybe to Lake Oyster Bay. I’m thinking Kanga or Kitenge gumboots would be beautiful…I feel a design idea coming on…Maisha, ek en jy gaan nog hieroor praat! 

Happy day everyone! x

Frangipani

"Baba, matatizo kidogo....." (Translation: We have a wwweeee little problem)

We arrived back at our home one evening after an early-lunch-at-Mediterraneo -that-turned-into-late-dinner-at-Spur-with-way-too-much-wine and our Askari (bless his heart, sleeps all night) very excitedly informed us that our tree fell down.

"Oh, well, when did this happen and which tree?" says Impi. "Baba, in the corner, come look" says Askari. "It happened at 5 o'clock" (it is currently 10:43 at night)

"a;lskcn b poaueb;oaisjv   alsdkvjpaoib'a" was Impi's reaction of course.

Well, turns out the beautiful tree that provided most of our all-day shade, came down with a crash on our "home-made braai", missed our umbrella and my favourite fever tree.

It took several days and various helping hands to cut down the branches to clear some space. We now have an awesome thick branch (still half way in the yard with the other half in the road) that's got the potential of a wicked treehouse and jungle gym for Moo. 

Then, out of nowhere Mr. Peter Someone (couldn't remember the surname) Chairman of so-and-so municipality pitched up shouting and screaming demanding to know why we didn't call them (who are they by the way) to come and cut the tree down! I mean come on! Were they really going to????

Funnily enough, we actually received about 7 queries of people walking by asking if they could bring their own machetes/chainsaws/blunt knives to cut it down and take the wood for themselves. They even offered us money to do so!! First ever!

Moral of the story.... not sure, but if anyone is up for a braai, let us know! We'll bring the wood!

~desert rose~

When a plan comes together

Don't you just love it when a plan comes together?! 2010 started really crappy, but people, I am happy to announce that things are finally starting to look up...


1. I have got a job! Signed, sealed and delivered!

2. I have sold my soul to the capitalists of the world for one more year, but that also comes with one more year of bush and beach...oh, and free wine...aka the deal breaker!

3. My landlord has agreed that we only have to pay two months rent upfront instead of the normal three. Where else in the world to you ahve to pay rent in advance?! We are even lucky, normally it is a year or six months upfront - and rent in Dar does not come cheap! So after being physically sick with financial worry, this is massively kind of him and Frangipani and me will be star tenants for the rest of the year!

4. My job is only starting in May. Under normal circumstances, this would NOT be the plan coming together. In fact, it would be the plan unraveling faster than my dwindling T shilling supply! But thanks to a brainwave from a friend, this is the best part which means I AM GOING HOME BABY!

One whole month in SA with my family, Woolies hot cross buns and Alto Rouge...things are definitely, definitely starting to look up!

Andizi