Sharks, Whale sharks and Whales

Life under the turquoise water of the ocean is a newly discovered wonder to me. Since I hesitantly fell backward off the boot for my first open water scuba dive I have marveled at this new world through the haze of my oxygen bubbles. There for it was with great excitement that I packed my camouflage backpack for a trip to marvelous Mafia.

The above mentioned is an untouched little island off the coast of Dar that boast a magnificent marine park. In fact, the dive sites around this island are world renowned and I could not wait to proudly put my brand new scuba license to the test! And the promise of spectacular diving is only half of it. With great anticipation I logged onto the website of the lodge everyday weeks before to see of news of whale sharks. These magnificent fish could arrive any time from the beginning of October, but they decided to tease us and it was only three days before our expected departure that the website eagerly exclaimed – “they have arrive”! I could hardly sleep I was so excited!

My friend Joey and I stayed at a lovely quaint lodge (Butiama - check it out, I can highly recommend them) but spent very little time in our colourful room. First stop on Friday was the Mafia Marina Park for two dive sessions. I could never have anticipated the sight that awaited me as soon as I equalized my way down to the bottom of the ocean. There were fish EVERYWHERE! I squealed with excitement into my regulator. I wish I was more artistically inclined, then I could draw all of this for you, for my bumbling s cannot begin to describe the coral, the fish, shy garden eels, massive scary looking ones, the gigantic lobsters, the lovely lace-like cowry shells, the luminous sea snails. Joey said at one stage he looked around to see if I was coming and he saw me just spinning around and around like a planet. I simply could not believe the underwater world around me. My favourite, without a doubt was the turtle we chilled with! They are so big and awkward looking and yet so graceful under water. I just wanted to hug it and take it home with me! “Awesome duuuuuuude”!

Saturday morning I could not wait to get on the boat and go and find me some whale sharks! But alas, the giant fish were nowhere to be seen. Hardly able to hide our disappointment we opted for some snorkeling instead. But again I could not get enough of the coral and all the fish! And I love the freedom of movement that snorkeling allows! We dived and dipped and had a great time! At one stage our guide instructed us to go under the water, hold our breath and listen…humpback whales calling to each other…incredible…The rest of the day was spent kayaking, strolling along the beach and lazing around reading our books. Pure bliss.

Sunday morning was our last chance to find the whale sharks. The manager at the lodge had by now all ready warned us that we were probably a bit early and they come and go still this time of year. She did not want us to leave the island disappointed and tried to manage our high expectations. But Joey sang at breakfast “I have a feeling”…and the whale sharks came out to play! When the huge speckled fin broke through the water hardly 2m from the boat I had my doubts, but when Ali shouted “JUMP” I jumped and swallowed a mouth of saltwater as the gigantic fish brushed past me. It was frightening and unbelievably exhilarating at once! I was still recovering from my first encounter when the whale shark turned around and headed back towards us with a giant flat mouth sucking air, plankton and water. My first impulse was to head to the safety of the boat, but Ali grabbed my arm and started swimming straight towards the big guy. And then the whale shark sank underneath me, I ducked the massive dorsal fin and swam alongside him/her looking straight into the eye of the beautiful creature. I could see the hundreds of little brave yellow fish hovering just in front of the massive mouth feeding of the plankton that escape the black throat of the whale shark.

We spent the next two and a half hours swimming with 6 whale sharks. At one stage I had two on each side of me within arm’s reach. The moments I was not worried about being squashed to death I was absolutely amazed by it all. By far some of the most indescribable hours of my life! I have experienced so many wonderful things since moving to Tanzania, but it has been in nature where I have been truly touched by a sense of something Bigger than us mere humans. Swimming with the whale sharks of Mafia was indeed a spiritual experience in a time it was much needed. The mysteries ways…

 

Andizi

Best Fruit Cake Recipe ever

Guys, you have to try this, it works like a bomb - everytime!

 Tequila Fruit Cake recipe :

1 cup sugar
1 tsp. baking powder
1 cup water
1 tsp. salt    
1 cup brown sugar
Lemon juice
4 large eggs
Nuts
1 bottle tequila
2 cups dried fruit

Sample the tequila to check quality
Take a large bowl; check the tequila again to be sure it is of the highest quality..

Repeat.

Turn on the electric mixer. Beat one cup of butter in a large fluffy bowl.
Add 1 teaspoon of sugar. Beat again.

At this point, it is best to make sure the tequila is still OK. Try another cup just in case.
Turn off the mixerer thingy.

Break 2 eegs and add to the bowl and chuck iin the cup of dried fruit.
Pick the fruit up off the floor.

Mix on the turner.

If the fried druit getas stuck in the beaterers, just pry it loose with a drewscriver.

Sample the tequila to test for tonsisticity.
Next, sift 2 cups of salt, or something.

Check the tequila.  

Now shift the lemon juice and strain your nuts.

Add one table.  Add a spoon of sugar, or somefink. Whatever you can find.

Greash the oven.

Turn the cake tin 360 degrees and try not to fall over.

Don't forget to beat off the turner

Finally, throw the bowl through the window.
Finish the tequila and wipe the counter with the cat.

~deshhert rosh~

London in 4 nights.......

TUBE MAP (i know, I'm also VERY confused!)

GAUCHO RESTAURANT (oh my soul - Argentinean Steak and the best Malbec ever!)

CARLOS SANTANA LIVE (tears in my eyes - Maria Maria)

OXFORD SHOPPING (barely made it, chaos and credit card broken)

GORDON RAMSAY'S RESTAURANT ON ROYAL HOSPITAL ROAD (there is NO explanation to describe how AWESOME this experience was)

ALYWNE MANSIONS, WIMBLEDON - Party Palace!

(with some awesome chicken wraps)

( and later - The Alexandra Pub........)

London, done, dusted in 4 nights! Woohooooo! 

Thanks to all you dear people who made this happen!!!!

"Zanzibar o Zanzibar"

Ettiene Le Roux was one of the most influential and also controversial South-African writers and a key member of the “Sestigers” literary movement. His work often contained mythological elements and he specifically had a weird fascination with dwarfs and the goddess Isis. Le Roux was silent for 4 years before Magersfontein O Magersfontein saw the light which contained very few of the fascinating creatures of his earlier works. The novel plays off in Magersfontein where in December 1899, Generaal Cronje and De La Rey defeated the British troops during the Black Week of the Second Boer War.

So what does any of this have to do with Zanzibar? ABSOLUTELY nothing, except for the one fact that because of the content of the novel and the way in which it differed from his earlier works, Magersfontein O Magersfontein needs to be pronounced with a certain type of melancholic, yet authoritive voice…well, at least in my mind! Something like the infamous, speculating Hamlet quote “Do be, or not to be”… “Magersfontein o Magerfontein”…get it? And THAT is how “Zanzibar O Zanzibar” should be uttered. For no other reason than I think it is the right way to do it! This most exotic, most alluring, most magical island conjures up so much emotion, a little nostalgia and a hint of respect is required.  So, after the above useless piece of information…all together now…”Zanzibar O Zanzibar”…sigh…

I spent a glorious two days with friends at the Tanzanite Beach Resort in Nungwi, right in the north of the island. The beautiful and bizarre elements that made up the weekend ranged from (claimed) Rohypnol infused trances, camp fires, Lady Gaga (not the real deal), snorkeling in the bluest water imaginable, Cinderella losing her shoe in the ocean and Prince Charming failing miserably to find it, a fish braai on the beach, MC Hammer, sea urchins, Osama freakishly appearing in a lighter, mini breads and off course Konyagi - the drink, not the cat.

Back in Dar life resumes as normal and it is good. But I do think longingly about the island of slaves, spices and sunsets..."Zanibar O Zanzibar"...

Andizi

A week in Scotland...

                                                                                                  (Google Images)

Champagne on tap, picturesque villages, old castles, Loch Ness monsters, lush green fields with sheep scattered all over, beautiful meals, medieval costumes, live guitar music, roaring fireplaces, sound of Flower of Scotland on the bagpipes, Gaelic crosses, Highland games, kilts, tartans, Edinburgh, history, laughter…… a week in Scotland

~desert rose~

Nick Brandt: On This Earth

{images}

So work is picking up and I am so grateful because it’s a much needed distraction.

We are busy brainstorming another African country’s tourism campaign and have to think of new ways to show for example and elephant.

Just google ‘African Elephant’ and you get about 2,900,000 results. Yep the  African elephant has been done over and over a million times and strangely they all look the same…

Doing all this wildlife photography research I remember a day that we walked past A novel Idea at Slipway and saw a book by Nick Brandt in the window. Its called On This Earth: Photographs from East Africa.

Now I am sure everyone has moments like this that stay with you forever. The cover of the book had the most amazing and moody photograph I have ever seen.

{images}

I am not a big coffee table book fan, having spent so many hours at strange peoples house while the parents ‘braai’ paging through another version of ‘THE AFRICAN KINGDOM”. But this one stayed with me. Ofcourse as fate would have it they we sold out when I went back.

According to theage.com.au you shouldn't talk to Nick Brandt about his life with the stars. Making video clips with the likes of Michael Jackson and Moby is all in the past. But he remains grateful for his pop successes because they have financed his current obsession - photographing Africa’s disappearing world of animals.

{images}

Brandt has reinvented himself as a serious photographer - and a very successful one at that. His portraits of animals in repose are haunting. He has an affinity with his subjects. His photographs are a bridge to a lost Eden, a fast disappearing world of amazing creatures.

{images}

Luckily we live in the age of credit cards and online ordering and his book is available on Amazon for a small fee of $26.40. Definitely worth it!

Nature is amazing.

~maisha

I am Woman

SEX AND THE CITY 2

Gotta love it – these woman is brilliant! Dar es Salaam-a-la-Sex-and-the-City-2

We got invited to the “Premiere” – excuse me – of Sex and the City 2 in Dar es Salaam! A couple of us girls, put our heels on and off we went to the Cinema.

Firstly – to get to the Cinema it took us about an hour as they opening started at 18:00. Or so the ticket said…. True Tanzania style – we got there at 18: 39 and they were still setting up! Hie hie!

But it looked great – pink carpet, pink drapes, pink cupcakes and best of all – PINK BUBBLES! JC le Roux was launching their new Le Fleurette Rose Sparkling Wine and they did a great job at it! No better idea than to bring bubbles to such a great movie!

It was honestly hysterical – and Samantha was the cherry on the top!

She was excellent! 

                 

I have to mention the clothes, oh the clothes, oh the beautiful, interesting, funky, weird, creations that came on screen! Goodness, whoever has got that job – they are great and shocking at the same time! I guess that is what they want – the shock  and wow factor all in one!

Ladies – round up the troops, dress up and go and see the movie – it’s fun!!!!

~desert rose~

Harare Happenings

Just incase - on the off chance - that any of the gorgeous people in Zimbabwe:
a) have an internet connection fast enough to read Mangotree Musings
b) can be bothered to read Mangotree Musings.. ;)

Dont miss this - fine entertainment delivered by Mr Alexander himself and a glass of wine - and you can feel oh so good because its all in the name of charity.  It would be selfish not to attend and purchase at least 2 copies...

http://www.kalahari.net/books/Fly-Fishing-for-Sharks/42658/33294147.aspx

Thursday, 24th June 2010

6:30 - 8:30pm

The Parvin Residence, 14 Aintree Road

I would be privileged if you joined me at the Harare Homecoming of Fly Fishing For Sharks, the Alan Paton prize-nominated memoir that I wrote about life with OCD. Much of the book's subject matter is connected with Harare and Zimbabwe, and it means a great deal to me that we are finally able to share it with old friends, family, colleagues and school teachers.

I always wanted to have a launch in Zimbabwe but was thwarted in that regard by my publishers. Literally in the last week - and hence the unavoidable late notice - a young lady named Charlotte Haggie hatched a plan that will hopefully see us all having a fun evening and raising a few shekels for a Guiness Book of Records worthy cause - Zimbabwean orphans of parents who have died of AIDS. Charlotte will be up in the country of her birth working in this area from June of this year.

There will be some comp wine and a snack and, if all goes to plan, a cash bar later. Charlotte will say howdee to the crowd and then I promise to entertain you with a speech about the book. If you are intrigued by my words and iconoclastic views, you can pick yourself up a copy, which I am happy to sign. Most of all, Charlotte and I would like it to be an event focussed on reconnecting with people, meeting new ones and helping out those who can't help themselves.
Hope to see you soon
Andrew 

Like Water for Chocolate

I have just finished the book "Like Water for Chocolate" by Laura Esquivel. It is a wonderfully romantic tale filled with magic and mythical recipes. The following is the recipe given for "excellent quality hot chocolate" - the favourite of middle sister Getrudis who ran off to become a general in the revolutionary army:

"The amount of water used should be a little more than enough to fill three cups. When the water comes to the boil for the first time, remove it from the heat, and dissolve the chocolate completely; beat with a chocolate mill until it is smoothly blended with the water. Return the pan to the stove. When it comes to the boil again and start to boil over, remove it from the heat. Put it back on the heat and bring tot the boil a third time. Remove from the heat and beat the chocolate. Pour half into a little pitcher and beat the rest of it some more. Then serve it all, leaving the top covered with foam."

Or there is the instant stuff - you decide...

But I really enjoyed the book and if you are a foodie, you would have read it by now or you should go out immediately and purchase. I loved how the traditional Mexican recipes are interwoven with love and lust.

Also for foodies - this weekend in the CTICC is the Good Food and Wine show. We will be there! We being Mamamac's. The show is the reason I have been in the bakery frantically helping prepare crunchies to choc-chips to custard biscuits.

There is a scene in "Like Water for Chocolate" where all the guests at a wedding start weeping uncontrollably after eating the wedding cake prepared by the love sick youngest sister Tita. Her tears fell into the batter and cast a somber spell on the wedding.

I wonder if my customers will experience a sense of what I was feeling while baking away in the cold winter of Ceres, missing days on the beach in Dar...happy yet homesick, satisfied yet searching...

Andizi

Easter Extravaganza

Living in Tanzania comes with lots of perks, one of them being loads of public holidays! Easter is one looong weekend that need to be taken advantage of! Zanzibar stays a fabulous destination and how could we resist the beach and blue skies.

Bluebay Resort and Spa is located on the Eastern side of Zanzibar. Wide stretches of white sand and turquoise water is what you could expect of this gem. The food is amazing and the beach bar definitely the place for a good book and a glass of chilled white wine.

Lots of activities like water aerobics, windsurfing and a proper diving operations will keep you entertained.

And if you are a bit old school a good dhow race attempted with buckets full of enthusiasm will do the trick.

It being Easter monday and having decided quite late on this trip all flights leaving Zanzibar was full and the only other option was taking the ferry a 90min trip if the posters where to believed. (turned out to be more like 3hours...)

Taking the ferry gave us the opportunity to see Stonetown and...

Dar es Salaam in a completely different light!

~maisha

Loose yourself in the streets of Stonetown

{images from Hendri Lombard}

The name Zanzibar conjures up visions of turquoise blue water and white hot beaches. This is what travel brochure advertise, what they don't advertise is the history and magic found in the narrow cobble streets of Stone Town. Driving into Stone Town for the first time you feel that time have truly stood still. Built around 1830 it was the centre of trade between Asia and Africa. Stone Town's main exports was spice (in particular cloves) and slaves. It had some famous inhabitants and exports. David Livingstone used Stone Town as his base for preparing for his final expedition in 1866 and it is also the birthplace of Freddy Mercury lead vocalist of Queen.

Stepping into the streets of Stone Town is like stepping back in time. Narrow streets with amazing architecture and small shops selling treasures of times passed. Look out for amazing jewelry and the famous Zanzibar chests with hidden compartments. Be sure to visit the night market in Forodhani markets for fresh grilled seafood and sugar cane juice. Don't miss the fish and meat market(not for the faint stomached) and see the different tropical fruits like jack fruit and custard apple. Have a sundowner at Mercuries and see the sunset as the dhows sail past.

{food market}

{haggling for some scarves}

While staying at one of the fancy beach resort we met some South Africans who found Stone Town to be 'old, dirty, full of black people that are poor and there is nothing to buy'. It's a Unesco World Heritage site(old), its in Africa and yes the people are poor but they will share their food with you. And why could we barely walk with all the things we bought? So do yourself a favour and have a spiced chai(spiced tea) and mandazi(sweet vetkoek) next to the side of the road and buy some beautiful khangas to take some of the magic of Stone Town home with you.

{sunsets and dhows, the narrow streets}

{the friendly people}

Places to Stay:

Cheap: Shangani Hotel

Mid Range: Tembo Hotel

Pricey: 236 Hurumzi

Places to Eat:

Cheap: Night Market at Forodhani Gardens

Mid Range: Archipelagos (No alcohol)

Price: 236 Hurumzi

Things to do:

Walk the shopping street

Visit Doreen Mashika for amazing handbags

Visit the market

Tour the Slave Church

Go on a spice Tour

Place for Sundowners:

Mercuries

Africa House Hotel

Best Coffee:

Zanzibar Coffee House

~maisha

Lost in a Salvador Dali Painting

The Ngorongoro Crater Lodge

The name alone – Ngorongoro Crater - conjures images of grandeur, a landscape so mighty it takes any breath away. After stepping off the vehicle to absorb our first view of the crater, I could hear us all take in a lung full of air… and as we exhaled the condensed mist moved away from us and over the Crater rim to join the thick white blankets spotted around the edge. I have never known such a natural emerald green – all around us, hills upon hills of rolling velvet. I gave a shudder, slightly overcome by my senses, and headed back to the vehicle for the warmth of my blanket.

It’s an extraordinary thing – a view. It consumes you entirely and embeds itself deep in your memory. An overwhelming sense of inferiority- comparatively, and yet it feels comfortable: as it ought to be. The colour of the crater through an afternoon mist, everything slightly ethereal and intangible. The dark thunderclouds in the distance moving swiftly over the plains on the floor. It inspires a great human emotion – gratitude, appreciation for witnessing such a spectacle.

Meandering down towards the rim’s edge, the Ngorongoro Crater Lodge is hidden inconspicuously behind a small boom. The crowds are noticeable on the roads, but as soon as we enter the Crater Lodge grounds all of that is forgotten. Our fabulous French friends remarked “Il est juste comme Alice au pays des merveilles!” (It’s just like Alice in Wonderland!) There is no white rabbit running around mentioning time – time has no place here. This is another world.

The architecture is inspired by the maasai Manyatta – mud and stick homestead style. That mixed with flamboyant fabrics, rich silks and decadent dining is your world here, and every now and again you are reminded you are in the bush by the nyati (buffalo) grazing on the lodge grounds. At no point is reality allowed in the gate.

The game in the crater was, needless to say, incredible. Overstocked with hyena, lazy lions and big tuskers, heavy with ivory. However for me this was not the highlight. The sheer magnitude of this caldera, and the beauty all around is what won me over, hands down.

&Beyond have done an incredible job here; the management and staff are flawless, attneding to your every need and going as far as to advise your footwear for the day, depending on the weather conditions. If you can find fault here, your expectations of African 5 star are seriously out of kilter.

Mind you, who can fault a Dali?

~ hibiscus

The Green Hills of Africa

Once a journey is designed, equipped and put in process, a new factor enters and takes over. A trip, a safari, an exploration, is an entity, different from all other journeys. It has personality, temperament, individuality and uniqueness. A journey is a person in itself; no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policing and coercion are fruitless. We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip, a trip takes us.

John Steinbeck, Travels with Charley

Mount Meru, from Rivertrees, Usa River.

On the road, Dar es Salaam to Arusha (Usa River), the most beautiful 9 hour journey made slightly more endurable by the presence of g&t's.

Rivertrees Country Inn, Usa River

To start with: the drive from Dar es Salaam to Arusha has a reputation close to that of Tiger Woods at the moment - happily poo poo'ed by everyone. We were slightly hesitant but determined to drive, and in retrospect I am so glad we did - it's now up there in our 'must dos' for those living in Dar es Salaam.

Roughly 600km, it took exactly 9hrs each way. Sisal bushes changed into coffee plantations, and by mid afternoon we had reached Rivertrees. We were warmly welcomed in true Tanzanian style, by Joel the assistant manager. The setting is quite exquisite, perfectly manicured lawns littered with grand old trees.

After humid and heated Dar, the green oasis was a relief. The rooms are simple but very comforting, and the four poster beds well- pillowed. Delicious meals were served in the dining room, complete with a blazing fire and large glasses of red wine. Msafiri was always happy to supply yet another fresh bread roll - straight from the oven and lathered with butter. I am not sure who could resist?! All in all exactly what we needed, coming from a totally different climate, and most definitely a relaxing start to a surprisingly energetic safari.

Life is too short for bad coffee

{image from Zanzibar Coffee House}

I am a self proclaimed coffee snob, if its not excellent I won't drink it. Now you would think that Tanzania's proximity to Kenya and abundance of coffee farms would delight my coffee fetish but no, in my three years in Tanzania, traveling from Kilimanjaro to Zanzibar I have found but three decent cups of coffee so take note...

1. Africafe in Dar 

(luckily 5 minutes from the office making the 3x weekly take away cappuccinos realistic)

2. Zanzibar Coffee House in Zanzibar 

(They have their own roaster on the premises)

3. Ras Kutani on South Beach.

Only one word describes Ras Kutani, paradise.

This weekend visiting Ras for the third time, but this time with friends I again realized that the packed beaches of Umhlanga will never have the same appeal again. 

There are two ways of getting to Ras, by road or by air. We usually go by road which comprises of a ferry ride that is like a gamble...it can take 10 minutes or 6 hours! And then another hour on a very bumpy road. The air route takes 5 minutes from Dar es Salaam airport where they proceed to row you over the lagoon with your luggage...how decadent can you get...But I prefer taking the road, it is as if all the worries and stresses of Dar fall away as the tar turns to dust and the villages get further and further apart.

There is no sign directing you to Ras, just vague directions comprising of a sandy road and a well hidden half meter high white and red pole...easy to miss but obvious when you are looking out for it! And after parking your car and checking in you enter into paradise where all the walkways are sand making shoes unnecessary for the rest of the weekend.

{image from Ras Kutani}

The beach is magical with masaais setting up daybeds in pairs for guests with a blue flag to wave if an ice cold pina colada is your desire. There is a shipwreck where you see dozens of tropical fish while snorkeling, just be warned...the sun is potent and snorkeling all day can lead to nasty sunburn in the evening...

Half the bungalows are lagoon facing where you can spot a monitor lizard going for it's morning swim and the Palm Nut Vulture (A lifer as a friend remarked) looking for a palm. The other half is seafacing and you sleep with the ocean breaking basically on your doorstep. The Bungalows are constructed of natural and local materials, making a night feel like sleeping in nature, complete with monkeys coming to visit through the open roof in the mornings.

Oh and the food, Hibiscus has her hand in this, is amazing...having visited numerous lodges Ras's food is by far the best! Breakfast is a full english affair with fresh fruit and juices. After lazing on the beach the whole morning lunch follows as a three course sit down with fresh seafood in almost every dish. Dinner is served under a roof of stars overlooking the ocean with the option of dinner for two on the jetty overlooking the lagoon or on the beach for that extra romance.

So, you might by now be wondering why this post started of about coffee, THIS is the best part of Ras Kutani (well for me) the clinking of a thermos of coffee and fresh cookies baked that morning arriving on your doorstep at the time agreed the previous evening. Can you imagine my delight at discovering that it was excellent coffee! Not instant or burned local coffee but specially sourced to make that cup extra special. 

So sitting on my verandah overlooking the ocean with a cup of amazing coffee, that I didn't have to make, in my hand the thought crossed my mind that life is definitely too short for bad coffee. 

~maisha